Saturday, 26 November 2011

Ensemble: The Style of Music (Iconic Outfits From 20 Male Musicians)


28 oct / More / by Adriano B.




Every Guyed presents ‘Ensemble: The Style of Music’ a series of posters featuring Iconic Outfits from 20 Male Musicians. Designed by Glenn Michael of Moxy Creative House, and illustrated by James Alexander. The prints are available here.



Michael Jackson knew what it was to be a star. In fact, he knew what it was to be a King, and in some cases, and to some fans, a God. He definitely took every liberty in expressing himself in that way, giving us unforgettable looks time and time again. Who can forget the black loafers, rhinestone glove, red leather jacket, and of course that Jheri curl?

Everyone likes to tease, but before he was subject to all the harsh criticism of the media, there probably weren’t that many people who didn’t want to be even a fraction of what Michael Jackson was. Never an imitator, Jackson always went for the drama and sexy cool that being the biggest Pop star in the world affords.

Love him, or hate him, Michael Jackson will forever be remembered for his music, and the weird and wonderful world he created with his style.


see the rest of it here


Paris salutes the King of Pop


























comme des garcons SS10/AP via ONTD_Fashinfags

The fashion world is also mourning Michael Jackson – and not just opportunistic retailers such as Supré who are hopping onto the MJ tribute merchandise bandwagon. Two days before Jackson died,it was revealed that the costumes for his upcoming This Is It tour would be festooned with 300,000 Swarovski crystals. At Givenchy’s menswear show on Friday, Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci told The New York Times that he had been working on some of those costumes and that his show (which featured some embellishment) paid homage to Jackson. John Galliano was the first to add Jackson’s music to his soundtrack. Also on Friday, Australia’s Jethro Cave upstaged yet another SS10 menswear show with his personal styling - Comme des Garçons. Although Cave lost the Gumby earring that prompted commentary at Costume National in Milan earlier in the week, he lifted the sleeve of his jacket during one CDG exit to reveal the words 'RIP Smooth Criminal' scrawled on his forearm. The 'Thriller' finale of Paul Smith’s show which closed the season last night was all over Twitter when Smith emerged on the runway, dancing with his models (here is a video). Jackson had of course recently been rediscovered by the fashion industry.

Much was made of Jackson’s recent appearances in an embellished T-shirt, jacket and trousers from Balmain's most recent womenswear collections – and a similarly-glitzy Givenchy jacket from several seasons ago.

The Balmain/Givenchy connection reportedly came via a hookup between Jackson and French Vogue fashion director Emmanuelle Alt.

But while Jackson has been cited by more than one as the inspiration for the rock trash aesthetic of Christophe Decarnin's recent collections for Balmain, notably a series of influential embellished military jackets, it seems that Jackson himself may have been more than a little inspired by fashion.

Together with the sequinned white glove, the beaded socks and the red bomber jacket worn in Thriller, the heavily-embellished vintage-look naval/military jacket was one of Jackson’s signature looks.

On several occasions the LA Times has credited Michael Bush and Dennis Tompkins as Jackson’s costumiers for the past 20 years, including this style obitfrom Friday.















































bill whitten for michael jackson: liveauctioneers.com (T) AP via daylife


Jackson may have worked with Bush and Tompkins in the latter part of his stage careeer, however the embellished military jackets that he wore to the 1984 Grammys and a series of other events in the 1980s – along with the original concept for the rhinestone glove – are widely attributed to Bill Whitten.

An LA-based costume designer, Whitten already worked with the Jackson 5 in the disco-infused 1970s, when the sibling group were performing in dazzling glitter stage outfits.

Here is one performance on The Sonny and Cher Comedy Hour, which ran from 1971-1974 on CBS.



Jackson was of course not the first entertainment industry figure to make a style claim on the vintage-look military jacket.


In the 1960s, Jimi Hendrix's stage look included genuine antique naval jackets, while the high-colour versions sported by The Beatles on the cover of their 1967 album Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club were authored by Mexican designer Manuel Cuevas.

























But according to Stuart Goddard – aka Adam Ant - Jackson's jacket inspiration was more London New Romantic than Sixties psychedelia.

Goddard claims that shortly after the release of his Kings of the Wild Frontier album and videos from 1980-1981, he received a phone call from Jackson asking where he had sourced the heavily-embellished vintage naval jacket worn in the videos.

Goddard told Jackson that it came from the costume hire company Berman's and Nathan's in London's Covent Garden.

At the time the fashion and music scenes were heavily entwined in London.

However in case you are wondering if that makes Vivienne Westwood not only a godmother to punk, but also to the King of Pop, according to Goddard, the jacket was his own call.

Westwood's then creative partner, Malcolm McLaren, was the band's manager at the time.

In Goddard's autobiography, he claims that although McLaren suggested he wear something from Westwood’s debut collection, entitled Pirate (shown in March 1981 in London), Goddard declined, preferring to source the genuine article.

see original post here.



Supré hearts Michael Jackson



Well that was quick. The King of Pop has yet to be laid to rest - or plastinated performing the moonwalk, pending which reports you believe - but already today in Sydney, Australian highstreet chain Supré had an $18 'I (broken) <3 Michael' T front and centre at its Westfield Bondi Junction boutique. According to a Supré sales consultant the shirt was whipped up at lightning speed by a local supplier. Stand by for a raft of global Jackson tribute merchandise. After the shot was tweeted by frockwriter, Real Living magazine deputy ed Natalie Walton offered the following theory for Supré's turbo speed-to-market: "maybe leftover from Hutchence's death???"

see original post here.



Sunday, 20 November 2011

The Nose of Pearls



»AROMA & TASTE«
J & B WHISKEY
FOTOGRAFIE: ATTILA HARTWIG
ASSISTENZ: DAVID DÖRRAST

Sunday, 6 November 2011

Now Hear This: "The Autopsy of Michael Jackson" After His Death



Photograph of Michael Jackson's body shown by the prosecution during Conrad Murray's trial, 2011. Blurred by sibiote.

What’s more eerie – the King of Pop, the great Michael Jackson, depicted as a froglike and somewhat unglamorous little corpse on the slab, his stage costume, complete with twinkly glove and trademark white socks, aff ectionately folded nearby? Or the fact that the painting – The Autopsy of Michael Jackson (2005), by New York painter Dana Schutz – was made four years before the star’s untimely death? At the time it was painted, much of the work’s power rested on what then seemed a farfetched prospect: the event happening for real – Jackson ultimately dethroned, vulnerable and abjectly factual as merely another body to be cut up and scrutinised. In Schutz’s quasifuturistic nightmare world, where even the increasingly dehumanised Jackson – of all people – was dead, the scene became almost fantastical, a premonition of some media-fuelled barbarism and contempt, a universal symbol of voyeuristic inhumanities to come. Now, in light of what we all know happened, the painting has brought this reading forward, its criticisms levelled at the here and now. And with that, this painting has had its relationship with the world radically altered.

I met the artist this year in New York just as the painting was being considered for Schutz’s exhibition Dana Schutz: If the Face Had Wheels at the Neuberger Museum, Purchase, New York. Curious at the prospect of the work reemerging in a post-Jackson world, Schutz began to describe her feelings about a painting that had strangely ‘come true’ since it was painted. In the email exchanges that followed, I tried to work out how her conception of the nature of painting negotiated these changing realities.

“In the end I did decide to show the Michael Jackson work,” Schutz explained. “It’s a painting that I have always really liked and felt that it should be included in the exhibition, but my fear was that it had all of a sudden become a ‘realist’ painting, too flatly what it is as an event, or all about a time past, the date in which it was painted. Or just straight up too depressing… although it was intense painting it, even in 2005.”

It struck me how rare it was to think of painting today as being so contingent on affairs in the world at large. The implied anachronism of what the artist described as the work’s realism felt more like a throwback to painting’s dependence on court or church patronage, to history painting or premodern portrait commissions of the great and the good. That is, when paintings were intended as a point of reference, cementing an official version of events for posterity. Yet given the disappearance of this model from our visual culture, it is, nevertheless, almost impossible not to think that the work’s primary subjects – Jackson’s illusion of timeless iconicity, even immortality, key to the work’s meaning in 2005 – have been wiped out now that Jackson is deceased.

As most European painting at the end of the last century demonstrates, the medium usually copes better when its relationship to historical events is the other way around, revisiting past moments that have been represented repeatedly, bringing its own brand of turgid vagueness to canonical historical narratives. As a result, ‘the Tuymans effect’ –via Gerhard Richter – has been successful in raising nuanced, marginal questions about what is known, imagined and desired of historical accounts as signatures of cultural conditions.

It’s abundantly clear that Schutz’s idea of painting has no real relationship to this approach, investing more in the possibilities of imaginative creation over abject nihilism, regurgitation as expressionism, or whatever you call it – which is what makes its relationship to real-time events so fascinating and irregular. I asked the artist what happens to the ‘life’ of recognisable images like Jackson’s (even if he was seen like never before) once the artist claims them, when they become embodied in, even transplanted by, one’s ideas about the business of painting above all. If painting’s fidelity to real events is low on the agenda, can the realism mentioned earlier be effectively dodged, once the ‘facts’ are successfully consumed, even overcome, by visual concerns, which in this case are outside such matters?

“Images can be unstable, especially when they are so loaded,” says Schutz. “I’m not interested in art purely mirroring life or culture, and I wondered if this painting now simply acted as a mirror. But in the end I don’t think it does. A painting can reorder the world in a physical way. A painting can act as a person. I love the fact that paintings can operate, be contagious, like images, that they have a kind of DNA (did W.J.T. Mitchell say that?). But they do have a physical body too, the experience of this physical body can be bound up in images or even create images.”

Here the painting itself sets the agenda, the real-life event subordinate to what the painting demands. The reordering of the conditions of its reception by the work itself (and not CNN news updates) suggests that there was always a sense of the painting having to confront a new reality at some point in time, but the painting’s core importance was not vulnerable to such changes. On the contrary – in this line of thinking, the work’s topical dimension is a conduit, even a metaphor, for something else. Here Jackson is a doorway to other concerns; Schutz operates a painting practice that increasingly appears bound up with the very ArtReview 63 inevitability of change, and its role in the A PAINTER ENCOUNTERS completion of a work’s cycle of meanings.

“When I was making the painting, I was aware MJ would pass away at some point (unless he opted for freezing) – I mean, everyone dies. So I knew at the outset that this painting was unstable and hypothetical. I thought it might be more interesting to get the scene wrong (because it was all imagined) than to get it right. I could have painted MJ in any form imaginable (he was always changing anyway), or I could have painted him
as an eighty-year-old. But it felt right to paint him more or less how he was in 2005.”

Given this mutability of options, I asked Schutz if the Jackson painting had lost some specificity – not as an image, but as a painting – after he died, and if her own hold on the image had been radically changed. And when considering showing the work again now, was there a fear that a different kind of content (scandal, ethics, etc) had arrived on the scene, and maybe the artist
wanted to distance herself from that?

“I did worry about it losing its specificity as a painting and that it did bring up a different kind of content. However, this can happen with any painting once it goes out into the world. The MJ painting for me felt strangely intimate while painting it, like it was a view for one, not for a voyeur, but more a scene that is set up for an audience of one, or a witness.”

Perhaps that is what transcends the negative impact of chronology here. It is the artist’s relationship to the surface of the image as the work takes shape that crosses over the two time frames, connecting them in significance in a picture of both a changing man and a painting (as a consequence of this point) inevitably susceptible to change. The scene then has something of the devotional about it, freighted with a private, interior kind of sadness that contrasts with the public nature of Jackson’s life and death. But in that devotion Schutz halts the story’s salacious or ethical dimensions and brings in her own presence, one that recruits the star to her cast of painted characters.

Like much of Schutz’s work, The Autopsy of Michael Jackson initially disarms with a sunny, childlike wonder at the grotesque or painful, then delivers an intense melancholia that puts me in mind of the sweet bluntness of a child’s questions about mortality – the kind that leave adults fumbling for words. With imagery of such crystalline pictorial clarity, the same happens here; the image is bright and clear, but the meaning is mutable, the attitude difficult to describe, the mood darkly lingering. Openness and candour give way to doubt, a movement of thought that starts to feel central to Schutz’s concerns the more she describes her work. In holding reservations about the work being “too flatly what it is as an event, or all about a time past”, Schutz has created a work whose mobility in relation to the unforeseen has ingeniously converted Jackson – in life always seeking the permanence of the iconic statue – into an icon of its opposite: unpredictability, the irreversibility of time and the tragedies wrought by random events. Far from being mawkishly prescient, the picture in fact gains weight in the relationship, not the discrepancy, between the two points in time either side of his real autopsy – the media-baited exotic Jackson on one, the martyred victim of cruelty and voyeurism on the other. And here stands Schutz’s supremely nuanced painterly vision, her ability to translate the private time spent making a painting into a universally accessible feeling akin to sympathy for her characters, holding multiple possibilities together in a personal, intimate engagement with the image: “I wondered if the painting of MJ could still work in a way that feels intimate now that his death was a real event in the world. I guess I’ll see when I see the painting in the show – but I think it’s still intimate (I hope).”

Even in briefly discussing this painting, Schutz reveals an unusual tenderness towards her pictured worlds, a place where the paradoxes of creativity and mortality are transformed into painted lives (and deaths). There is a powerful sense that the private, intense act of imaginative visualisation involved allows Schutz’s paintings, almost in spite of what they represent, to indeed ‘act as people’ – to create meaning, and have meaning put upon them in turn.


Dana Schutz, The Autopsy of Michael Jackson, 2005, oil on canvas, 152 x 274 cm. Courtesy Friedrich Petzel Gallery, New York


As told by:
NIGEL COOKE
The Autopsy of Michael Jackson p. 62
Now Hear This
in Art Review, November 2011



archive